Are you planning to shop for a wedding or have a business conference to catch? Is it going to be your first suit or are you adding to your collection? No matter what, the basics to buying a suit must be clear in order for you to pick your best match. There are a few things every man must know before buying a suit. A suit is not just an attire, it is the reflection of your persona. It definitely brings out the more gentleman side of you. Our ultimate guide will help you to buy a suit that’s perfect for you.
1. Go Bespoke
The word bespoke is derived from the verb bespeak which means to “speak for something”. Like its meaning, bespoke clothing actually speaks for you. It is made from scratch to your specifications. It offers a man full control. It includes handwork used entirely on all garments and attention to detail. Bespoke clothing comes with a large selection of fine quality fabrics. If you want a perfect fit and a detailed suit that speaks your style, bespoke clothing is just for you. With bespoke clothing, you have the power to wear your style matching the industry standards. It is made according to your body type, size, and fit. It is important to find an authentic and knowledgeable bespoke designer who will create your perfect bespoke suit.
2. Know Your Body Type
Knowing your body type will immensely help you to get the right suit. The kind of suit you buy must compliment your body type and enhance its strength. Following tips will help you choose the right type and pattern for your body type.
● Tall and skinny men can choose light-colored suits with heavier fabrics. They have the liberty to choose a suit jacket with three buttons with a single vent or no vent at all. They also have the option to wear double-breasted suit jackets. The trousers must have a longer rise (distance between the waistband and crotch). It will balance the proportion of the legs to the upper bodies.
● Short men can choose from a bunch of fabrics but should avoid loud patterns. The suit jacket can have 1 or 2 buttons with a vent on either side to add the illusion of length. The trousers must have a low rise to make the upper body appear longer. Vertical stripes are a good option as it makes them appear taller by drawing the eye upward.
● Bulky men should choose well-fitted suits with lightweight fabrics. They can choose dark colors with solid or vertical pinstripes that will make them look slimmer. The suit jacket can have 2 buttons and a single vent in the rear.
When it comes to size, accuracy is very important. A well-fitted suit is the key to look perfect. To make sure the suit you buy fits you right, there are some specific measurements you must know or make sure is measured right. These are :
● Chest size
● Sleeves length
● Waist size
● Inseam size
When it comes to shoulders, the suit’s shoulders must hug yours. The shoulder pads must not protrude beyond your own shoulders.
4. The Fabric
There are many fabrics options. Generally, silk, cashmere, linen or cotton are for hot weather. But the best option is always a nice woolen suit. Woolen fabrics are warm, have a natural elasticity, strong durability, drapes well, absorbs moisture and can be dyed easily. Wool is derived from animals such as sheep, goat, camel, llama, alpaca, etc. It is renowned for its warmth and crease resistance. There are some specific types of wool- Alpaca Fleece, Angora, Cashmere, Mohair, Camel Hair, Virgin Wool, Boiled Wool. The fabrics play a vital role in defining the quality of your suit. Suit fibers are rated by a ‘super number’ which represents how fine the fibers woven into the suit are. The higher the number, the thinner and smoother the fabrics are. If you invest in a good bespoke suit, you will find the fabrics coming from superior quality brands such as :
● Holland & Sherry
● Giorgio Cavalli
● Ermenegildo Zegna
There are different suit patterns. Solid color suits are mostly one color with no patterns. Pinstripes are very thin, vertical, evenly spaced lines. A windowpane pattern is a square or rectangular pattern made using widely spaced horizontal and vertical stripes. A check pattern suit is like a windowpane pattern but the horizontal and vertical lines are more densely packed. Plaid check patterns are usually bold colors. The other popular patterns are houndstooth, Chalk-stripe flannel, Bird’s eye, Herringbone, Madras, Seersucker, etc. When you know
the variety of patterns available, it is easier to select the right pattern for you. And you can always experiment with them.
6. Suit Types
Before you go hit the store or get ready for a custom made suit, you must be thorough with basic suit types. Suits can be one of the following :
● The single-breasted suit or the British style suit- has only one set of buttons and buttonholes, doesn’t overlap.
● The double-breasted Italian suit – has two front overlappings across the body with four or six-button options. It is mostly ventless with no flaps at the back
● The American suit – usually single-breasted with two or three buttons. It has a single vent in the back, low armholes and flap pockets. Pants are mostly full cut with no pleats.
● The oriental styled Mandarin suit – cut very closely to the body, gives a very clean and sharp look. It has a Nehru collar or the band collar and worn mostly with full buttons on.
After you got it all right, the last step is the final fit. Even if it is a custom made suit or off the racks, you need to try the suit after the alteration. The suit collar must hang such that a quarter-inch of your shirt collar is seen when you stand. The jacket armholes must be positioned right so that you can raise your arms over your head without the jacket riding up. Pants must be worn at the waist and fit the crotch area without bulging.
The pants must have only a small gap from the shoes. And don’t forget, comfort is the key. The perfect fit will always be according to your body type and size. You must be comfortable with it. If you are trying hard to fit in, it isn’t the right one for you. Now that you have learned the basics on how to buy a suit, we are sure you will find the perfect suit. Don’t forget to congratulate yourself after you have got your perfectly fitted suit. You have not just bought it, you have earned it.