Fabric and Thread Count:
Fabric can either make or break an dress shirt. A shirt of substantial quality is made of the finest Giza cotton with a high thread count. Most high-quality dress shirts start at two-ply 80s or 100s and the luxury shirts at 120s and higher.
Giza 45 is the most highly graded cotton fibre of the Egyptian cottons. Adding to the superior properties is a very high breaking resistance,
S.I.C.TESS, Carlo Riva. Soktas, Albini, Alumo, Tissori are the top brands in Giza 45, 86, 87 and onwards
SPI – 23 stitches per inch that allows the stitching to remain almost invisible. Hence shirt looks ‘Seamless’. Normal shirts have 10-13 stitches per inch and a good quality shirt has 12-15 stitches and a ‘Real Bespoke’ shirt has 23 stitches per inch. Stitch density, as well as consistency, are a good way to judge the workmanship of a shirt. Tightly woven fabric should have a very high density of stitches, which results in an elegant look and durability.
Pattern matching – perfect pattern matching gives ultimate finishing and perfect look. This adds a very pleasing appearance to a finished garment. It is a true sign of craftsmanship
Interlining for shirts i.e. collar and cuffs we use is Wendler from Germany & DHJ from France- this gives extraordinary finishing to collars and cuffs, no bubbling and long lasting. collar interlinings are available in different weights, which result in different stiffness or softness.
Mother of pearl buttons from Australia- A real Bespoke shirt deserves pearl buttons and not plastic ones. It’s a hallmark if a quality shirt. Mop( Mother of pearl button is the one featuring a more beautiful luster
Side stitches – The narrow 3 mm hemline and side French seams make the shirt look seam-less. Cleaner look and dressier appearance, making it perfect for dress shirts
Brass Collar Stay – The collar is the most striking feature on a shirt. everyone wants a stiff collar. And that’s where we use brass collar stay and that gives sharp and professional look
Gutermann Thread from Germany – A &E Gütermann is able to look back on more than together 275 years of successful company history. Gutermann Thread, which originated in Germany, has the right thread for sewing. Whether you sew by hand or machine, Gutermann Thread has the perfect thread for shirts. Gutermann Cotton Thread is a 100% longstaple mercerized cotton sewing thread. They are the premium sewing thread worldwide
120 Stiteches per button – A high-quality shirt will always have high-density button holes, which essentially include a lot more stitches than the average to ensure longevity and polished look.
Durkopp Adler Sewing Machines – is a German manufacturer of sewing machines. Durkoppwerke’s history began in 1867
Monograms – Luxury shirts with the option of having an entirely hand-embroidered monogram, which is the epitome of skilled artisans and are harder and harder to find nowadays.